In 1563, King Setthathirat made the riverine city of Vientiane the capital of Laos. Or, to be more historically accurate, Wiang Chan, the ‘City of the Moon’, became the capital of Lane Xang. In those days it was a small fortified city on the banks of the Mekong with a palace and two wats, That Luang and Wat Phra Kaeo (built to house the Emerald Buddha).
Today Vientiane is, perhaps, the most charming of all Sout heast Asia’s capital cities. Cut off from the outside world and foreign investment for much of the modern period, its colonial heritage remains largely intact. While the last few years have brought greater bustle and activity, it is still a quiet city of tree-lined boulevards, where the image of the past is reflected in the present.
Snuggled in a curve of the Mekong, Vientiane is also the region’s most modest capital. It is much more than a town, but it doesn’t quite cut it as a conventional city. Here, colourless concrete Communist edifices sit alongside chicken farmers; outdoor aerobics fanatics are juxtaposed against locals making merit at the city’s wats; and a couple of traffic lights command a dribble of chaotic cars, bikes, tuk-tuks and buses on the city’s streets.
A short trip north of Vientiane is Vang Vieng, a favourite of adventure enthusiasts, with caving, kayaking, tubing, trekking and more on offer.
